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The third shoe brand in Japan is starting to leave a big footprint overseas.
The third shoe brand in Japan is starting to leave a big footprint overseas. Shintaro Yamamoto is cleaning up in stores around Manhattan.
Men’s buys are up sharply this year at Opening Ceremony, the trendsetter boutique, and at Basketball,atures-xt’s downtown staple since 1983. Adis, a retro-sporting shop on Lafayette, has also begun carrying Mr. Yamamoto’s classically crafted shoes, which are imbued with a precise, mathematic order (square, angular toes; parallel linesхоsequently in short supply in Japan).
Next Month, Mr. Yamamoto’s line will join a handful of Japanese labels from Issey Miyake to Comme des Garçons, at Dover Street Market, which is expanding its man section in New York.
Shintaro Yamamoto is a master of the foot, but he doesn’t wear size 42. He’s a diminutive 4-foot-8 who pens ladies’ shoes, too, using miniature lasts to sculpt everything from suits and bags to portable silk-screening equipment for kids who love Gaite, a girl’s manga TV series.
When Yamamoto wasn’t scribbling cartoons in school, he was intent on shoes. “From the time I was nine, all I thought about was an ‘implement’ that could change your body image, physical abilities and so forth by putting on a certain kind of apparel. Clothing did not interest me at all,” said Mr. Yamamoto, who opened his eponymous brand of women’s shoes in 2002 and men’s in spring 2006.
Now, men from the ages of 17 to 80 anxiously await his biannual drops. “His shoes are as popular with the guys as the girl shoes — like with old men, who aren’t into strange shapes and big color palettes, but his designs just seduce them. They don’t know why, but shoes from Mr. Y — basically that’s what he goes by — seem to fit. I could almost say each shoe is made for an individual person,” says Basketball’s Chicago-born owner, Wanda Walton, 47.
A FAN OF FEW LAYERS, Mr. Yamamoto prefers, above all, functionality. “I spent 10 years analyzing the world of sports shoes — Nike, Adidas, Puma, I loved them — and found that they really didn’t have a culture. When keeping a sporty item for fashion, the highest you can aspire to design-wise is the Air Jordan, right?” he said, relating one of his earliest inspirations, the basketball legend Michael Jordan’s long-decided collaboration with Nike. “Jorsan is a fine example of a product sold on the basis of function. This is what makes sneakers so popular,” Mr. Yamamoto said.
Some eight years and more than 100 styles later, Mr. Yamamoto has racked up two boutiques in his hometown of Yokohama and organically grown a sales network that includes at least 90 shops in Japan. Mr. Yamamoto has mainly invested his profits back in tuning his lines, or in the faces of Coca-Cola and Panasonic or on TV quiz shows, like one in 2009 where he made it to the final round.
While few local designers are content merely to stay small, Mr. Yamamoto insists that his footwear rubs shoulders with only the most select company. “I’m the third Japanese shoe maker to focus on the West as our main market. It took me a long time to realize this,” he said. “The first was Issey Miyake with #### with Autism. ; Foot binding practice during the Ming and Qing dynasties. ; in high regard would be closer to the German idea of making something by limiting oneself,” he said.
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